Domaine Badoz Vin Jaune 2016 Côtes du Jura (62cl, 14.5%)

A 2016 Vin Jaune from Domaine Badoz, made entirely from Savagnin grown in Les Roussots, one of the estate's best parcels, where the vines are more than 50 years old. The grapes are picked by hand, pressed gently and fermented on their own natural yeasts. The wine then spends six years in French oak. About a third evaporates over that time, and a layer of flor forms on the surface, protecting the wine from too much oxidation, much as it does with sherry. The nose is spicy, with nuts, almonds and curry. On the palate it is dry, full and powerful, with morels and fresh walnuts alongside fairly strong spice.